Saturday, November 6, 2010

Demonstration & Antiques

poor-quality iPhone Photo
Yesterday the prime minister of Turkey, Recep Tayip Erdoğan visited my school. Security was incredibly heavy, split between leather coat wearing, pointy shoed secret police guys and storm-trooper style riot police. There was a large demonstration on the quad against his party, the AKP which they chanted "Tayip Amerikaya, Fethullah'ya yanına git!" or "Tayip, goto America by Fetuhllah's side," a reference to a
poor-quality iPhone photo
belief that the Turkish government is highly influenced by the controversial Turkish  preacher of sorts, Fethullah Gülen (who happens to live in Pennsylvania of all places). Eventually the PM left, and some the protesters formed a line directly in front of the riot police's formation, causing them to retreat in a rather anticlimactic fashion.

Today I took a small walk to Çukucuma to take photos, something that I often do on weekends. The area is a center for "antiques," although not the typical kind  that you'd find in tourist bazaars. It's more the salvaged random-junk variety of antique, which I suppose I much prefer over ridiculous overpriced and completely fake "Ottoman artifacts." As   I was walking around, I saw a man through a door, and I approached him asking if I could take his photo, something that in this case led to a two hour long conversation and better photos than the one I had originally hoped to take. Due to really poor lighting, very few of my photos came out well enough to share, but there is one that I'm proud of that I will include in the next post with other new, worthwhile photographic additions.
Interior of antiques warehouse

I entered the warehouse to find a large, damp room full of assorted domestic and industrial detritus. The centerpiece of the room were two large completely wooden objects that looked a lot like horse carts, but turned out to be some kind of wool carding machine (I think). Around the machines were various chairs, the man's very own paintings (some of which from when I was 15), mismatched chairs and couches, blacksmithing tools, and salvaged wooden beams and doors. While at first I could figure out how this was a viable business, I later figured out that all the shops on the street serve different functions, and while this warehouse serves as a clearing house of sorts for newly acquired stuff (for lack of a better word), other nearby shops serve to fix, refurbish, finish or sell the items.

My new friend...
The man I met, spoke with a thick Erzurum accent and was eager to talk to me and patient to speak slowly with me. Our conversation began when he stated enthusiastically, upon learning that I'm from America, "OH! I hate America!" Somehow he seemed to make an exception for me, and we got along quite well.  He gave a Turkish geography lesson by reciting all the cities in Turkey, interspersed with occasional praise for Edger Allan Poe and Salvador Dalí. In the middle of our Turkish chats, he would sometimes break into English and say "Islam... GOOD!" and give a hearty thumbs-up sign. "America... BAD!" (A frown and a generous thumbs-down). The conversation then went somewhere rather unpredictable and even more enthusiastic than the last two proclamations.  "Marlin Brando... GOOD!!" he said. "Better than Al Pacino, better than De Niro,  better than Michael Jackson." At this point the man stood up and limped to a pile of salvaged wood, from which he retrieved a number of soggy Marlin Brando posters and proudly showed them to me.

I really enjoyed talking to this man, and look forward to seeing him again. Finally, if you have made it to the end of this post, check out the collage I made in my art class... (I think it may have scared the substitute professor slightly)

Monday, October 18, 2010

Dupnisa Cave

(Photo by Rob Pieh)
This weekend I went to the Dupnisa Cave, near Demirköy\vaguely near Kırklareli on the Bulgarian border. The cave has some kind of historical and linguistic relation to Dionysos, although I think some unsubstantiated writings of "ceremonies, including human-sacrifice" in the cave are a bit suspect.    I went with BÜMAK, my school's cave exploration club (and I think one of the very first in Turkey.) The 3.5 hour bus-ride became an (enjoyable) 6 hour ride  thanks to frequent stops and lively dancing in the center aisle of the bus. We made a rather surreal stop in a very empty and restful Kırklareli around 3 am to buy bread from a local bakery that had just opened for the morning. One sleepless local told be of a nearby town called Ceremi (Jeremy), but I haven't been able to find it on any map.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Baba Zula

Last night I went to hear Baba Zula, Turkey's top psychedelic Electro-Anatolian Bağalama band... It was interesting. The band, especially the lead player, was dressed as if they what looked like old Janissary "Mehter" costumes that had accumulated 100 years of dust in the attic of the musician's aunt's house. The highlight of the night was a song called "Pırasa," meaning "leek." The performance culminated in a single leek suspended from a fishing line that was lowered down to the stage. As it dangled, the band danced around it in various levels of seemingly drug-induced delirium. They sung directly to the leek, and perhaps the leek was singing back to them in a sense as well. While I didn't have the state-of-mind to understand what the leek was saying to them, luckily they translated through music. The song climaxed as the lead-player began to violently strike his instrument with the leek. The stage went dark, except for a spotlight on the leek, which was then raised back to the ceiling.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Istanbul Photos: Rain and Portraits





İstiklal Cd. Nostaljik Tram
İstiklal Cd. Nostaljik Tram

Turnacıbaşı Sokak: 1am

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Mushrooms in Hurriyet...

An article in today's Hurriyet says...

"Mushrooms that decorate the woods with their cute umbrella appearances are an indispensable dish for many, but the characteristics of those that proliferate in Turkey’s forests are widely unknown...'A poisonous mushroom called ‘Sour Mehmet,’ resembling a sheep’s belly, is often sold in bazaars,' said Barutçiyan." 

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Donkeys In Today's Hurriyet

A gem quoted from a Turkish English-Language newspaper...

Free Donkeys on Shores of Aegean
The offspring of doneys left by Greeks who left Turkey after the Balkan Wars in 1912 and 1913 number in the thousands today and are roaming free. During the Greek exodus, most migrants traveled to Greece by sea after transporting all their goods to shore by donkey. The donkeys, however, were not taken on the journey. According to elderly locals the Ottoman Government tried to look after the donkeys and ordered the district governors to gather them together. "They first gathered them at castle constellations or in the village countryside and tried to take care of them," said a local elder called Uncle Cevdet. "There were people who wanted to take ownership of some of the donkeys but that was a difficult job. The donkeys did not have saddles or leashes and you couldn't make them move even by holding them by their ears. They are stubborn animals," Cevdet said, adding some people even died from kicks while trying to move the donkeys and when they brayed in chorus the sound was unbearable. Eventually, the donkeys moved to districts like Çeşme, Ayvalık.  



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