(Preshevo Valley, Serbia)
(Montenegro)
Boka Kotorska
(Njegusi, Montenegro)
(Montenegro)
Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Nis to Prishtina
Nationalist phrase of the day: "Serbia from Beograd to Tokyo"
On the second to last day in Nis the Roma community threw a big party with us. It was great fun and was complete with American hiphop, but also classic Roma music like "RedBull SexyBull" and "Duma Duma Ja." I also got a chance to play my accordion for everyone and one friend of mine, Sali, sang a bit (although he was reluctant).
The next day we went to the Preshevo Valley, an Albanian enclave within the borders of Serbia. The police and army presence was VERY noticeable as we walked to the OSCE (A European security watchdog
org) mission to Serbia office in Bujanovic. We learned about what they do and how they try to prevent violent spillover from Kosovo. It was also interesting to learn that the media is a primary security issue for the area since they sensationalize any potentially ethnic-related issues. We also went to an English language library that was interestingly staffed only by people who lacked any knowlege what-so-ever in English. Finally we visited a bilingual media outlet. We couldn't eat in the main kafana cafe because it was a security risk as it's owned by the local Serbian Radical Party leader.
The bus back to Nis was a bit late to the bus-station so my Academic Director, Kumjana, asked a guy at the station "Is the bus late, is something wrong?"
He Replied: "It will come"
Kumjana: "Is it late?"
Offical: "Of course it's late"
Kumjana: "How do you know it will come?"
Offical: "Because it's always late"
Kumjana then asked why they just don't change the timetable, which I thought was an intelligent question. Anyway... the next day (this morning) we left for Prishtina, the capital of Kosovo as the Tour D' Serbia began in the Nis city center. The drive was uneventful although the border was rather intense. Serbia doesn't officially recognize the border since they still consider Kosovo as part of Serbia. There is only a small police checkpoint on the Serbian side where a guard saw my accordion and asked if we are a band. Soon after, we found ourselves surrounded by barbed wire and heavily armed soldiers. In kosovo it seems like every other building and every other vehicle belongs to an international organization: the UN, UNMIK, OSCE, KFOR, etc... Our hotel is very nice and right next to the American University. It did take a few minutes, however, to clear the cows from the hotel driveway to allow us to pull in. The night set in to the sounds of a call-to-prayer and later a Roma wedding on the next block playing Tallava synthesizer music.
On the second to last day in Nis the Roma community threw a big party with us. It was great fun and was complete with American hiphop, but also classic Roma music like "RedBull SexyBull" and "Duma Duma Ja." I also got a chance to play my accordion for everyone and one friend of mine, Sali, sang a bit (although he was reluctant).The next day we went to the Preshevo Valley, an Albanian enclave within the borders of Serbia. The police and army presence was VERY noticeable as we walked to the OSCE (A European security watchdog
org) mission to Serbia office in Bujanovic. We learned about what they do and how they try to prevent violent spillover from Kosovo. It was also interesting to learn that the media is a primary security issue for the area since they sensationalize any potentially ethnic-related issues. We also went to an English language library that was interestingly staffed only by people who lacked any knowlege what-so-ever in English. Finally we visited a bilingual media outlet. We couldn't eat in the main kafana cafe because it was a security risk as it's owned by the local Serbian Radical Party leader.The bus back to Nis was a bit late to the bus-station so my Academic Director, Kumjana, asked a guy at the station "Is the bus late, is something wrong?"
He Replied: "It will come"
Kumjana: "Is it late?"
Offical: "Of course it's late"
Kumjana: "How do you know it will come?"
Offical: "Because it's always late"
Kumjana then asked why they just don't change the timetable, which I thought was an intelligent question. Anyway... the next day (this morning) we left for Prishtina, the capital of Kosovo as the Tour D' Serbia began in the Nis city center. The drive was uneventful although the border was rather intense. Serbia doesn't officially recognize the border since they still consider Kosovo as part of Serbia. There is only a small police checkpoint on the Serbian side where a guard saw my accordion and asked if we are a band. Soon after, we found ourselves surrounded by barbed wire and heavily armed soldiers. In kosovo it seems like every other building and every other vehicle belongs to an international organization: the UN, UNMIK, OSCE, KFOR, etc... Our hotel is very nice and right next to the American University. It did take a few minutes, however, to clear the cows from the hotel driveway to allow us to pull in. The night set in to the sounds of a call-to-prayer and later a Roma wedding on the next block playing Tallava synthesizer music.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Niška Banja, topla voda - za mangupe ziva zgoda
Greetings from Niš!
Unfortunately I don't have any photos to share just yet. Nis is a bit more of a traditional city than Podgorica. We got here by van driven by an amazing crazy driver who had to move his scythe out of the trunk to make room for our bags. The drive was really amazing and went through some incredible canyons. The driver was rather... Balkan - so we were either going to arrive very early or not at all...
We arrived in Nis alive and met the homestay families. I'm living with a Roma family in the neighborhood of Mala Beograd (or something like that). There are two grandparents, a mother, and a 16 yearold named Saija. There is also a neighbor named Salin who has been a very helpful translator. He also happens to be Saban Bajramovic's nephew. Today we are all going to Niska Banja together.They have been really nice to me, and I think are even maybe a little too eager to make sure I'm comfertable as most host families seem to be in a homestay situation. They've been feeding me A LOT and my host mother says that she wants me to go home fat. . . She also polished my boots while I was out of the house to the point where they are more polished than when I got them. I gave them a book which is now on display on top of the TV. More later on the family...
The quality of the lectures here has been excellent and we have talked a lot about Europian Integration and ."dealing with the past" here. I also think I maybe decided to write my research paper on music's role in constructing new national identites in the post-Yugo republics.
We goto Prishtina on friday where I should have more regular internet avalabilty.
Unfortunately I don't have any photos to share just yet. Nis is a bit more of a traditional city than Podgorica. We got here by van driven by an amazing crazy driver who had to move his scythe out of the trunk to make room for our bags. The drive was really amazing and went through some incredible canyons. The driver was rather... Balkan - so we were either going to arrive very early or not at all...
We arrived in Nis alive and met the homestay families. I'm living with a Roma family in the neighborhood of Mala Beograd (or something like that). There are two grandparents, a mother, and a 16 yearold named Saija. There is also a neighbor named Salin who has been a very helpful translator. He also happens to be Saban Bajramovic's nephew. Today we are all going to Niska Banja together.They have been really nice to me, and I think are even maybe a little too eager to make sure I'm comfertable as most host families seem to be in a homestay situation. They've been feeding me A LOT and my host mother says that she wants me to go home fat. . . She also polished my boots while I was out of the house to the point where they are more polished than when I got them. I gave them a book which is now on display on top of the TV. More later on the family...
The quality of the lectures here has been excellent and we have talked a lot about Europian Integration and ."dealing with the past" here. I also think I maybe decided to write my research paper on music's role in constructing new national identites in the post-Yugo republics.
We goto Prishtina on friday where I should have more regular internet avalabilty.
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