Beyond The Balkans: Tarlabaşı Market & Other Photos

Tarlabaşı Market as dusk begins

On Sunday I ventured over to the Tarlabaşı Market, a mere 15 minute walk from my house. A blog focusing on the neighborhood can be found here, but in short Tarlabaşı is a mixed minority neighborhood that is under an urgent risk of government-influenced gentrification. I certainly plan on returning both to do my grocery shopping and to take more photos and meet more people. The market itself, which is huge, offers a good cross-section of the neighborhood which is the most diverse place I've ever been in Turkey: a feature which makes me feel at home, approaching the diversity that I grew up with every day taking the subway in Brooklyn, NY. There's a surround-sound mix of Turkish and Kurdish conversation, bargaining, and hawking, accompanied by a wealth of African languages, Arabic, and the occasional smattering of English or German. The sellers all try to outdo each-other by calling out their wares, making animal noises, singing songs, or even breaking into a collective soccer hooligan-like hooting. Transexuals (of which Tarlabaşı has many) are buying henna and clothing alongside older conservative women. Many people were eager to engage in a conversation with me and have their photos taken, something that with a few exceptions I don't do without a conversation these days.

Most of the following photos are from the market, with a few exceptions...